Januari 2024 - Teneriffa, Spanien - Del I

 In the windy and cold winter, we escaped to Tenerife for two weeks. This destination we hoped to be a good fit for our first time abroad with a little one of 11 months (A), with a not-too-long flight and not-too-warm temperatures, and a not-too-high flight price. With little experience of the Canary Islands, we picked Tenerife because of the plentiful hiking trails and green nature but though we didn't prepare much beforehand researching daytrips or destinations, it turned out to be a fantastic trip that really exceeded our expectations. In this post I'll do my best to summarize our first week which we spent at a guesthouse in El Tanque.

First, I'll have to mention our flight there which went smoother than expected. We were lucky that the plane wasn't fully booked, which meant that we had an extra seat to use. A was sleeping both at the start and end of the flight, and in between she was happy to sit on the empty middle seat and play, not so much with the toys we brought but rather with any non-toy she could find - the safety instructions card, the wifi instructions or a pack of tissues. After we landed we picked up our rental car (which included a child seat) and headed out to a grocery store to pick up some food, since we planned to mostly cook ourselves. However, we didn't take into account that it was Epiphany Day, and most of the stores were actually closed! Luckily we found a smaller store in one of the tourist areas in the south where we could stock up on some things before driving on to El Tanque. We arrived at Finca El Lance, an old winery turned guesthouse which we had booked on AirBnB. It was owned by an older Swiss couple who greeted us with a piece of a Three Kings cake and a bottle of wine. We had our own small cottage fitted with kitchen, bathroom, bedroom and a yard, but the main treat was the common area of the Finca. It was situated on a steep hill and there were several little places with chairs and tables where you could sit and enjoy the view.

Our first full day we did a hike which started in El Tanque and went up to Arenas Negras. Since El Tanque is on the mountain side it was a very steep uphill to start with, but we were soon treated with excellent scenery both in terms of surrounding nature and views. One of the things we loved about Tenerife was that a single hike could take you through so many different types of nature. As was the case with this one, we started in a village, entered a mossy forest, transitioned into a pine forest (with the largest pine cones we've ever seen) and finally reached the volcanic area with black sand and little vegetation. This was probably one of the longest hikes we did, but we were super happy with it. Since A doesn't walk yet, she was happy to be carried in our Ergobaby carrier, with some occasional breaks on the ground to explore. She loves being outdoors and really liked the forests where she could just reach out a hand to touch trees and bushes that we walked past.

The second day, we drove down to the coast for a change of scenery. We started off visiting one of the Charcos, natural pools where you can take a dip in the ocean while somewhat sheltered from the often rough sea and big waves. We walked eastward to a village San Juan de la Rambla with another charco which seemed quite popular to visit (Charco de la Laja). We took a dip in the crystal clear water which was around 22C perhaps, and then went searching for lunch. This small village didn't have many restaurants, but we found a bar serving drinks and smaller dishes tapas style. They didn't really speak any English and hardly surprising, they didn't have many of the dishes that were on the menu. So I did my best with my duolingo-Spanish to order lunch for us and what we ended up with was this: grilled cheese served with honey and blueberry jam - this turned out to be a local specialty that you could find at basically every food place (and very tasty), tuna in tomato sauce - for some reason the woman I ordered from suggested half a portion, I have no idea why, which was unfortunate since it was really delicious, and a huge plate of fries with shredded ham and cheese, and mayo (papas locas). After lunch we went back towards our car, and along the way stopped at yet another pool - Charco Verde. This one was at the end of a steep path, but we were rewarded with a quiet spot were we were almost alone. It also seemed to be a few meters above sea level, which left it mostly untouched by the waves, and also shaded by the surrounding cliffs - a perfect place to go with a little one for a calm afternoon.

Charco Verde

The next day, we went back to Arenas Negras but drove part of the way to park at one of the many camp/grill spots and just do a roundtrip hike. When google maps picked the most direct route, however, it was one that was extremely steep. In general, when driving on Tenerife, nerves of steel are to recommend, but this path I would not wish anyone to drive on ever, as it wasn't really wide enough for two cars and it was steep enough that you could barely see where you were going. Once we arrived though, we enjoyed a nice hike which was quite flat, and sandwiches that we had made for lunch. When we got back in the afternoon, we started a nice tradition of bringing some snacks to one of the areas at our guesthouse with chairs and table to enjoy some spanish cheese and other things while catching the last of the sun before it disappeared behind the hills.

Arenas Negras

Day four was again spent hiking along the coast, an incredibly hilly hike but with such dramatic landscape that left us in awe several times. Always the coastline ahead of us was shrouded in mist from the crashing waves. Our destination this day was Puerto de la Cruz, a popular place to go to watch big waves crash against the rocks and houses by the coast. We found an excellent lunch spot at a restaurant on one of the smaller streets in town where we ate papas arrugadas - another local specialty with potatoes cooked in saltwater (so they become "wrinkled") served with two sauces, mojo rojo and mojo verde. On top of that, grilled mussels and prawns in sauce. On the way back we stopped for a while in the shade on a wooden deck where A could go exploring and we could rest our feet for a bit.

The next day we felt like taking a break from the hiking and enjoy some time at a charco, so we drove to Los Silos, an area with desert like landscape and plenty of cliffs and charcos. We spent most of the days at a small rocky beach that was right next to one of the more popular charcos, Charco Los Chochos. As the charco caught most of the waves and the tourists, we could enjoy a quiet time and A even enjoyed taking a dip in the cool water. We went for a walk along the coast as well, but it was very warm. To finish off the day, we drove to Garachico, a popular visit on the north coast. It's a cute town, and we did a bit of city sightseeing and treated ourselves to some ice cream.

Day six, our last day in El Tanque, we decided to drive up to Parque Rural de Anaga in the north east corner of the island. This was one of the places where, as we found out, you might want to apply for a permit. Several of the places on Tenerife that attract a lot of tourists require a permit, which is often free but you have to apply online weeks or sometimes months in advance. In the case of Anaga, the permit is only required for a specific hiking trail but luckily there are plenty of other fantastic hiking trails to pick from. We were also happy to park a bit away from the main parking lot which seemed to fill up quickly. We picked out a route along PR-TF 10 which led us to a viewpoint Mirador Aguaide (view on AllTrails). Amazing views both along the trail and at the viewpoint, so we were definitely not disappointed and we would actually have liked to spend more time in this area to explore. Just the forest itself is also really nice, as this is a big chunk of mostly untouched nature and the oldest forest on Tenerife.

Here ends or first week on Tenerife, the next post I will write about our second week spent in El Palmar. Cheers!

April 2022 - Panama - Santa Catalina, El Valle de Antón, Panama City

Our next destination after Boquete was Santa Catalina, a small village on the Pacific Coast with only a few hotels, hostels, restaurants - and dive shops. Santa Catalina is known as the entry point to go to Coiba National Park, whether you are a scuba diver or just beach hopping for the day. Others come here to surf. Since it was a bit 'off', with few and irregular buses heading there, we decided to take a shuttle. It turned out though that we were only three people going with this shuttle, so it was actually a car rather than a minibus which felt quite luxurious. The hostel was owned by an Italian man and doubled as a café during mornings and pizza place during evenings (though the coffee and bread was better than the pizza).

After going for a lunch, we waited for the dive shop across the street to open, and then headed there to fill out forms and sort the details. We had originally booked only two days of diving, planning to have our third day just to chill on the beach, but after those two days we asked to extend for a third day of diving. Because it was really nice. While we again found ourselves in the "in-between" season where nothing was really in season (no whalesharks, no hammerheads...) we really enjoyed the diving here. We got to see a few different types of sting rays that we haven't seen before (some of them huge!), lots of white tip reef sharks, lots of octopuses, a few seahorses (!) also a kind we haven't seen before, some new types of "fluffy" nudi branchs, and LOTS of turtles. Unfortunately, we don't have any cool photos of these creatures as the underwater casing for our camera was leaking. You'll just have to imagine it.

A typical day scuba diving here would look something like this: early breakfast, head out on the boat around 8am, drive to first dive site (1-1,5 hours), then a break on one of the nearby beaches, second dive, longer lunch break on another beach, third dive, boat ride back, shower, snack, hammock time, dinner. And the best part was that these beaches were among the most beautiful we've seen on this trip - picture perfect paradise type beaches with palm trees, beautiful sand, crystal clear turquoise water...Spending a few days here was really amazing. And though we didn't see any of the big stuff we were kind of hoping for, we did get an acrobatic show by some dolphins our last day. Our very last dive unfortunately didn't turn out great - as we descended we ended up in a school of thousands of jellyfish - yes, the kind that sting! Not dangerous, but giving enough of a burn that it was quite uncomfortable swimming the first part of the dive. Once we got out of all the jellyfish, the current was too strong and in the end we had to cut the dive short. When we came back up on the boat, we all had very red lips and burning/itching hands from the stings. Well, it was an experience, as you say!

flying dolphin

Our very last longer stay for this trip was El Valle de Antón, a small town surrounded by the ridges of a very, very old volcano. We picked this destination for our last top due to the proximity to Panama City and the fact that we would be there during part of Semana Santa, Easter week - we wanted to be close to the city to be able to get there easily even if there weren't any buses running during Easter (there were, but we weren't 100% sure). We stayed at a cozy hostel where we could take some free yoga classes (!) and where some of the volunteers hosted a Panamanian Easter dinner with traditional foods such as baked pumpkin, chicken rice, beetroot salad, and some banana-cheese-chocolate roll for dessert. We spent our days hiking (sometimes with a cute, fluffy private guide!), and afternoons reading. 

This was also where I got to spend my birthday. I started the day with yoga, and then we went for a steep (but pretty) hike. The previous days we had lunch at a nice Colombian restaurant (with excellent arepas among other things) though on this day we went to a local place for a huge portion of arroz con camarones (shrimp rice), and then went for ice cream. In the afternoon, we went to some hot springs where you first started by doing a face mask with special mud - and then washed it off and enjoyed soaking in one of the (not super warm) pools. In the evening I had booked a table at probably the second fanciest restaurant in the area. The restaurant belonged to a hotel which was about 2km outside of the small village. We thought it might be very crowded since it was the Easter Friday, but when we came it was nearly empty and seemed to mainly be residents of the hotel eating. Although they unfortunately couldn't serve us any artisanal beer or nice cocktails due to the dry law (not being allowed to serve alcohol during Easter Friday), the food we had was really amazing: corn cobs, cheese fondue with patacones, grilled veggie salad, sweet potato tacos - and for dessert, sopapillos, some sort of fried dough filled with lemon cream and topped with chocolate sauce and cinnamon. Not a bad way to spend a birthday!

 

The next day we hopped on the bus(es) to the capital - Panama City. On the bus ride to the hotel we passed the bank district and watched the skyscrapers in gold and glass panels from the window. Not the most fancy hostel (our "private bathroom" was only private in the sense that we were the only ones using it - it wasn't actually situated in our room), but good enough for two nights. After a quick lunch we decided to take the long bus ride out to Miraflores, the famous spot for watching ships pass through the Panama Canal. Of course, this must be one of the main sights in the city, but we were still surprised to see the amount of tourists there. The actual museum part was closed when we were there, but for the $10 entrance we got to spend around 30minutes as a big ship was being transported through.

In the evening we managed to find a nice food truck selling burgers - our veggie burger had a patty made from rice, coconut and black beans! - and some nice local craft beers. Our last day, we went to Casco Viejo, or San Felipe, as it's also called, which is the old colonial quarters in the city and offering some cute, fancy coffee shops, monuments, and stalls selling souvenirs and Panama hats. We also got a nice view of the city skyline. We stumbled upon some Easter celebration outside of a church, and randomly ran into our friends Alex & Sarah, who we met in El Salvador (and in Honduras). We enjoyed a fancy coffee, had a pretty amazing lunch at the fish market - pescado de la hembra (breaded fish covered with shrimp in coconut sauce) with patacones, of course - and lastly, called an Uber to take us to the airport...

And this concludes our three and a half month backpacking trip through Central America!
Where to next?

April 2022 - Panama - Bocas del Toro, Boquete

 Our first stop in Panama was the paradise-like islands of Bocas del Toro on the Caribbean cost. A shuttle and two boat rides from the border took us to our hostel on the island Bastimentos. Bocas Town, on the main island, is known to be a bit of a party place which was why we opted for the more tranquil option. I was a bit surprised to discover that the main village on Bastimentos did not feel touristy at all, but this might be because a lot of tourists who go there stay at nice hotels or resorts on Red Frog Beach - known to be one of the prettiest beaches on the island.

We spent a total of five nights here, to enjoy the beach and relax. Our first day we walked over to Wizard beach, another well known spot and the beach closest to the village. It did require a bit of a hike over the hill, and since it had been raining some during the night, it was quite literally a slippery slope to get to the beach. The second day, we originally planned to hike to Red Frog Beach, which would mean that we took the same trail as to Wizard Beach but keep going for another 20 minutes or so. However, the trail was not very well marked, and due to the heat and humidity we gave up and instead stayed on a more remote part of Wizard beach, which we had more or less to ourselves.

In the evening, we discovered what would become our favorite restaurant on the island, Guari Guari, conveniently located just across the street from our hostel. With cheaper prices than most of the other ones, the women who owned and ran the place whipped up some really good local food dishes, like fried fish or shrimp with patacones (of course).

The next day we went on a boat tour, organized through our hostel. However, I think we got a bit unlucky as the guy who were supposed to take us hadn't got any other bookings, and rather than take only us we got dropped off in Bocas Town to go with another tour agency - where it turned out that both the captain and the others in our group spoke mainly Spanish. While they would try to answer any questions we posed directly, none offered to translate what the captain was saying which led to some misunderstandings and frustration. 

First, we went to Dolphin Bay, which, as the name suggests, is where you go to see dolphins. The boats will take turns driving in circles to let the dolphins play in the swell and around the boat. Next, we went to some houses on an island to fill up with gas, and where we were offered to order some lunch. After some probing, we managed to figure out that we would only order, and then would come back later for the actual meal. We didn't realize though that we wouldn't have the meal until 3,5 hours later (and it was already around lunch time). 

The captain drove us first to El Zapatillo, one of the biggest draws. El Zapatillo is a small island with very pretty, postcard picture beaches - white sand, palm trees and turquoise water. Most of the boat tours go here, so it was quite a lot of people, but we did manage to find a little more quite spot. After three hours on this beach, we finally got to go back to the restaurant to eat. As we started to drive to the next destination, we tried to ask about snorkeling, which we had been told was included in the tour, and which we had figured out was nearby. It turned out that the rest of the group wasn't really up for snorkeling, and that they were going to skip it completely if we hadn't asked. In the end, one other guy joined us for a couple of minutes of swimming around the boat. The last stop was not on Starfish beach, which I had thought, but near a small mangrove island where we could spot a couple of starfish in the water. As the captain drove back to drop us off on Bastimentos, it became apparent that we would also skip Sloth island (you guessed it, to see sloths). To be honest, even though we had a nice day overall, I found it hard to enjoy it; I mainly felt stressed because we never really knew exactly what was going on and no one wanted to tell us, so I found it a bit disappointing.

El Zapatillo - pretty beach but cloudy day

small snake that we nearly missed because it looked like a stick

Our last day, when we were having breakfast, one of the owners of the hostel called on us to show something in the garden. Two tiny, poison dart frogs, red with dark spots on their back (who have given Red Frog Beach is name, though supposedly they are more rare to see than they used to)! 

We decided to spend our day hiking to a spot on the Northwest side of the island which was supposed to have some good snorkeling. Along the trail was a café/farm (closed when we walked past) at the top of the hill - and it seemed that very few people had continued further on the trail after that. We were pretty amazed when we walked only a few minutes more and started see little frogs hopping about in the leaves on the ground. We started to see more and more of them, and in every shade from pale yellow to bright red, with different patterns on their backs. That morning we had been so excited to see those two frogs at our hostel, and now we saw them everywhere!

Fact is, we were so busy admiring and taking pictures of the frogs that we nearly walked right past a sloth! Just by the side of the road, a sloth with a baby on its belly was making its way up a tree! This was amazing, we really felt that we got to experience something special. As we continued along the path however, it got smaller and smaller and more difficult to follow, until we had lost it completely. We had made it more than halfway and decided to try to make our way through the jungle until we reached the coast. It became a careful treading, as it was sometimes steep, and zigzagging trying to avoid walking into any of the hundreds of spiderwebs woven between the plants. When we eventually made it out to the water, I was exhausted and shaky from trying to tread carefully while constantly having spiders all around me. Valle handled it better, of course, but we both agreed that it turned out a bit more adventurous than we had expected. A well needed dip in the ocean to wash off the sweat and dirt, and then we spent the rest of the afternoon resting and relaxing on the beach (we never made it to the snorkeling spot). We spotted another sloth with a baby high up in the trees near the beach, and were not so sad to had missed out on the Sloth island afterall.

The next day rain was pouring down, but somehow we managed to miss the worst of it as we made our way south, arriving in Boquete two boat rides, one taxi, and two bus rides later. When we arrived, we went for lunch at one of the local restaurants with a "point and choose" style that seemed to be the standard in the cheaper local places. Overall, I would say that we didn't find Boquete to be very special.  While it offered several hiking paths, it felt like more of what we had already seen a lot of. Our first day we walked a trail to three waterfalls, one in which we took a cold and refreshing swim. Another supposedly were a good place to spot the elusive quetzal birds, though we never managed to see one. Our second day we hiked a trail called El Pianista, which brought us up to a nice viewpoint.

Lastly, a slow day walking around the small town, and looking forward to head down to the Pacific coast for some scuba diving.